The first timer's guide to busting snow ghosts in Quebec

First things first, I should probably make it clear that this article has nothing to do with paranormal activity and explain what snow ghosts are. Snow ghosts are the result of heavy snow accumulations on tree branches – mostly pine trees. They can easily be confused with snow mummies, which are formed by the cristalization of water droplets on trees in freezing temperatures. Both can be observed in multiple places in the province of Quebec and will make you feel like you just stepped into the movie Frozen. If your goal is to witness these snow formations during your visit to the province of Quebec, here's your guide to optimize your chances.

when is the best time to see snow ghosts

The obvious answer is winter, but there is a little more to it than that. Winter in the province of Quebec runs from the end of December to the end of March. However, December usually has very little snow accumulation. It does snow, but it can be slushy and melt quickly. January tends to be very cold which not only makes it uncomfortable to be outside for long periode of time, but also offers poor conditions for snow fall. In my opinion, February would be the peak time! It is the month where there is the most snow on the ground, it is not as cold as January, and the conditions are usually really good. If you are flying or driving from out of the province though, be aware that it is also a month with a lot of snow storms. Travel conditions can be unpredictable. March is a coin toss. The conditions can be really good some years, while in other years, everything is basically melted already. 

So, if you are flexible and can be there in a jiffy, the season will be longer for you as you can wait for optimal conditions and just be on your way. If you are planning in advance, end of January to the end of February will be your best bet.

While snow ghosts will be more common after a heavy snowfall, certain conditions can make them almost a guaranty, which is why the location you are heading to is just as important as the time of the year.

where are they most often seen

While snow mummies need one thing - a high enough altitude for the clouds to freeze and cristallize on the trees - snow ghosts need two things: lots of snow and as little wind as possible. In a very windy area, it doesn't matter how much it snows, it will always be blown off the trees as soon as it lands.

This is why valleys are often the best place to find them, just like in the Ghost Valley in Mont-Valins, aptly named because it is renown for its massive amount of snow and its protection from the wind, which makes it an optimal place for snow ghost formation. Mont-Valin national park offers a shuttle service from the visiter center to the valley, as the roads are impracticable in the winter. You do need to make reservations ahead of time as they tend to sell out fast, but since the conditions are almost always good, it shouldn't be a problem. Lucky visitors will manage to make reservations to stay in a cabin close by and will therefore be able to visit Ghost Valley for sunset or sunrise. For more information, you can read all about my experience visiting the Ghost Valley here. 

For those ready for a challenge, Mont Mégantic and Mont Gosford are two mountains that also offer an almost guaranty of seeing ghosts, but you do need to be ready! Mont Gosford is a 15,4 km trail (or 9,6 km if you pay 14$ to park a little further) in heavy snow. If you have never hiked in the snow before, you need to be warned: walking in snow is basically like walking on a sand beach, but if you walk just a little bit off the trail, or if it snowed in the last day, every step could make you sink to your waist. Mont Mégantic is a little bit easier but not by much. Snow shoes are recommanded (or mandatory if it snowed in the last 24 hours) for both trails. While these are challenging, they are doable and totally worth it. Once you reach a certain elevation, you are walking amongst trees that are completely covered in snow, so much snow that some trees are bent over from the weight. As you keep climbing, you will find yourself surrounded by snow mummies, with some tree branches almost looking like those cristal candy sticks without the colouring. Then once you reach the summit, you will see all the surrounding mountains covered in snow, just as beautiful as this peak. It is a sight to see at least once in your life!

Another place where you will have good chances of encountering snow ghosts is Camp Mercier in the Laurentides Wildlife Reserve. It is one of the places with the most amount of snowfall in the province, but it is also one of the places with the longest season for winter activities. It tends to snow earlier in the reserve than almost everywhere else. Ghosts are not a guaranty though. If it gets windy, these trees are not as protected as the ones from the other locations, so you will have better chances shortly after a snowfall. While it's not guarantied, this place is also more convenient, because you don't need a reservation and the hikes are fairly easy. I do recommend snow shoes at Camp Mercier as well, but you can rent them there if you don't have your own.

what will you need for your visit

Snow shoes, touring skis or at the very least snow cleats will be your best friends. Depending on the conditions, you might be fine with just boots or snow cleats if the trail has been well paved and it hasn't snowed in a while, but make sure to have snow shoes or skis available just in case. My friend and I opted for just the cleats when we went hiking in Mont Gosford, as it hadn't snowed in the last 24 hours, and we exhausted ourselves from sinking to our waists and getting back up. We did make it to the summit just fine, but it definitely would have been easier with snow shoes. Hiking poles would have been great too if I had only thought about it.

Depending on the temperature or the lenght of your hike, a warm beverage is a must. I tend to get dehydrated, but don't feel like drinking cool water in the cold, so tea, coffee or hot chocolate in an insulated bottle just makes to whole hike into more of an event while also helping you stay hydrated. If you do decide to bring water, know that camelbacks in freezing temperatures aren't great as the water tends to freeze and then you don't have access to your water. Insulated bottles are the best!

If you decide to bring any electronics, make sure to keep them in an inside pocket close to your body. Cold temperatures can be tough on batteries. I personnally brought two camera batteries on all of these hikes, that I kept in my sweater pocket under my coat until I needed them, and I did go through both of them in every single hike. My camera batteries have about a 30-minute lifespan as soon as I take them out of my coat, wether I am taking pictures or not.

I always bring extra clothes that I leave in the car to change after my hike so I can drive home in dry clothes. Just a sweater and socks can make a huge difference in your confort. I also bring layers in the car that I put on just before the hike so I don't sweat while driving to my destination and then freeze as soon as I walk outside. You will need a winter coat, snow pants, a warm hat, waterproof mitains and warm layers, but you are also not on a North Pole expedition. Being too hot is just as bad as being cold as you will sweat and then freeze from your humid clothes.

​Last but not least, my parents always say there is no bad weather, just bad clothes. While I agree with them to a point, the goal is always to make it home in one piece and no clothing will make it safe to hike in a storm or in -30 degrees Celsius. Please leave enough wiggle room in your travel plans so that you can adjust your itinerary to accommodate for bad weather if need be. 

some photos to convince you to plan your trip right now

While I don't particularly love winter, I have to admit there is a kind of special energy to it, and finding snow ghosts always makes a hike so much more entertaining. The thick snow covering the trees blocks the sounds and renders your surroundings quiet, and light reflects on the snow and makes it sparkle all around you. While I did say this article had nothing to do with paranormal activity, you can't deny there's some magic there!

​Now that I have convinced you to brave the canadian winter, share this with your friends and good luck ghost busting!

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